Clay and/or dung based daubs are primarily used now to repair the in-fill panels of timber framed buildings - wattle and daub. The daub is applied by hand to wattles which are interwoven branches, lathes, or rods. Daub has a plaster-like consistency and can be mixture of clays, mud, plant fibers, and animal dung. After the daub sets, it is then limewashed to make it more weather resistant.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THESE PRODUCTS ARE MADE TO ORDER, YOU WILL THEREFORE BE NOTIFIED OF A LEAD TIME ON CONFIRMATION OF ORDER OR CONTACT US FOR LEADTIMES IF YOU WISH PRIOR TO PLACING YOUR ORDER ON 01874 611 350 OR EMAIL TYMAWR@LIME.ORG.UK.
Clay and/or dung based daubs are primarily used now to repair the in-fill panels of timber framed buildings - wattle and daub. Archaeological evidence shows that this technique has been around since the Neolithic period and it is still widely used today in the Middle East and parts of Africa. Wattle and daub construction is cheap, reasonably weather resistant, and cooling, the limewashed walls can prevent heat penetration in extreme climates, making it ideal for these locations but we recognise it's insulating properties here too in cooler climates. The daub is applied by hand to wattles which are interwoven branches, lathes, or rods. Daub has a plaster-like consistency and can be mixture of clays, mud, plant fibers, and animal dung. After the daub sets, it is then limewashes to make it more weather resistant. We are also able to make daub to order if you are wanting to follow an historic recipe for example.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THESE PRODUCTS ARE MADE TO ORDER, YOU WILL THEREFORE BE NOTIFIED OF A LEAD TIME ON CONFIRMATION OF ORDER OR CONTACT US FOR LEADTIMES IF YOU WISH PRIOR TO PLACING YOUR ORDER ON 01874 611 350 OR EMAIL TYMAWR@LIME.ORG.UK.
The daub needs to be “knocked-up” – process of chopping, beating and turning which will make the mix much more pliable and workable. Water should only be added very cautiously once the material has been knocked-up.
A bell mixer is the ideal way to ‘knock-up’ the daub. It should be left turning for long enough to achieve a suitable consistency (20-30 minutes). Smaller quantities can be ‘knocked-up’ with a whisk and bucket if no mixer is available.
Application of Daub
Daub is smeared onto the wattle either by hand or with a steel plastering trowel.
It is usually applied in a single layer 15 – 18mm thick, but a second coat may be applied if required.
The daub needs to be forced through the wattle to form “nibs” behind the latticework which will hold it securely in place.
If a second coat is required, the first coat should be scratched to provide a physical key, and the second coat should be applied once the first coat is “knuckle hard” i.e.. Too firm to dent with a knuckle.
Following good practice, a second coat should be applied before the first coat is fully dry.
Daub requires carbon dioxide in the presence of moisture to cure. This is a slow process which may take anything from a week, a month or more depending on thickness, wetness of the material and the environmental conditions.
Newly applied daub will need protection from heavy rain and drying out for at least 7 days.
To slow down drying and reduce risk of shrinkage cracking, gentle spraying with water may be required.
Daub should be finished with a limewash or other suitable breathable paint to add a layer of weather protection. Allow the daub to complete its curing process and fully dry before painting.